The Valley of the Church
I used to swim all the year round, but getting older and having to take blood thinners to stop my blood from turning to concrete, I really feel the cold. Consequently, I am somewhat shamefaced to admit that I have just had my first swim in 2025. The last time I slipped into Pembrokeshire’s icy waters was in November 2024.
But although long awaited, my first swim of 2025 was glorious, and even more so as my lovely PA suggested Cwm Yr Eglwys at high tide.
If you don’t know it yet, this lovely little bay, tucked away on the eastern edge of the Dinas Island peninsula is named for the little church – Valley of the Church.
This has long been my favourite spot but I cannot manage the beach any more and I need help to get close enough along the slip. With Maya’s help I was able to waddle straight into the water and just enjoy the delight of being immersed in the briny.
Despite its modest size, this coastal hamlet offers a rich tapestry of natural beauty, history and a sense of timelessness. It is a popular destination for walkers, history enthusiasts, and those seeking a peaceful retreat.
As mentioned, Cwm Yr Eglwys is most famous for the ruins of St Brynach’s Church, which sits at the heart of the small bay.
The church dates back to the 12th century, but met a tragic fate in the 19th century due to a series of violent storms. Most notably, in 1859, the Royal Charter Storm – one of the most powerful storms in British history – ripped through the area, destroying much of the church and dramatically reshaping the surrounding coastline. Today, only the west wall and parts of the graveyard remain, preserved as a poignant reminder of both the power of nature and the resilience of the community.
The remnants of St. Brynach’s Church are maintained as an historic site. Visitors can walk among the gravestones, some of which date back several centuries, and take in the beauty of the bay. The backdrop of the ruined wall against the waters makes it a favourite spot for photographers.
The sea wall, cliffs and wooded hills create a microclimate which often feels warmer and sunnier than other parts of the Welsh coast. The beach is ideal for paddling and picnicking, particularly popular with families and kayakers who enjoy the calm waters, but watch out: the beach almost entirely disappears at high tide.
From Cwm Yr Eglwys, walkers can embark on a circular route around Dinas Island (actually a headland, not an island), offering dramatic sea views, rugged cliffs, and a chance to observe seabirds and wildflowers in abundance. The trail is relatively accessible, making it suitable for a wide range of walkers, and it loops back to Cwm Yr Eglwys, where a rest by the beach awaits.
There is a small carpark near the beach with a £5 fee, and in summer an ice cream kiosk.
Though it is a quiet spot, known only to a few, I highly recommend it for a dip.
